Treffel P, Gabard B
DOI: 10.2340/0001555576341343

Besides visual evaluation, skin irritation induced by sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) may be characterized by bioengineering measurements, such as skin colour reflectance, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) or hydration. Short application times or low concentrations of the irritant usually do not modify the visual aspect of the skin, and the measurements described above are unchanged or only slightly altered. We were looking for a suitable method to measure cutaneous changes not detectable by usual bioengineering procedures. Therefore these measurements were compared to those of dynamic function testing of the stratum corneum, namely sorption-desorption and moisture accumulation tests. Different concentrations of SLS (0.1%, 0.5%, 2.5%), application times (15 min, 24 h) and times of testing (1 h, 24 h after patch removal) were investigated on the ventral forearm of human subjects. When SLS was applied for a short period (15 min), 1 h after patch removal skin colour, TEWL and hydration were not modified, while increases in hygroscopicity, water-holding capacity and water accumulation were detected depending on the applied concentration. Increase of hygroscopicity was closely correlated with the alteration of epidermal barrier function (TEWL). We demonstrated that sorption-desorption and moisture accumulation tests performed on SLS-treated areas for a short period, without visible modifications, could evaluate changes of the stratum corneum properties. We consider these tests as useful complementary methods to skin colour, TEWL and hydration measurements, particularly in the detection of subclinical skin injuries.